Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Leaders meet at Peak Freaks & Himalayan Meltdown

Standing room only and even then there wasn't enough room so we held the meeting outside. It was a big turnout to learn of the next steps to get the climb underway. After three hours of hashing out who is going to do what we are left still looking for one more shared fixing summit Sherpa. It's all happening though, that we do know.

After the western guides meeting we had a Sirdars (lead Sherpa guides) meeting in the tent to get it all laid out in their language, everything went well and everyone is happy with getting on with the climb. Supplies are being moved up to stock camps with tents, food, stoves, oxygen and rescue equipment. The wind we are expecting should be slowing down on the 17th - so if all plans hold together up high on the mountain we should see the first summits by the fixing team on the 18th and then the teams will follow in behind in the days after.

We still don't see any signs of a looming monsoon or much precipitation for that matter, it's snowing right now so it will be interesting to see how that adds up on the mountain- if any. There's not much behind it except some high wind and dry

Shortly after the meeting our crew came marching back into camp. I didn't realize they liked it here so much, we are having a ton of fun whatever way the climb goes. Marty, Ben and Joshua have gone down to Pheriche, it's their turn to represent Peak Freaks at the disco.

Joshua checks in for our Spanish followers:

"Hola amigos de Ecuador, Canadá y el mundo.
Aprovechando los días extra que el mal clima nos ha enviado les mando este pequeño mensaje.
Bueno los últimos días las cosas han estado como se dice en Ecuador "color de hormiga" en el campo base. La operación mas grande en el Everest, que contaba con cerca de cien miembros (clientes, guías entre ellos Jaime Avila y sherpas) se ha retirado. Según su apreciación la montaña es demasiado peligrosa este año. Ciertamente nos ha desmotivado un poco, pero no lo suficiente para abandonar.
Por el contrario nuestro plan ha sido esperar, unir esfuerzos entre los que quedamos y atacar, lastimosamente se vino otro contratiempo, el viento. Según la meteo se vienen fuertes vientos toda la semana, así que nos hemos venido a Periche a despejar la mente y esperar lo mejor. Al parecer se viene otra ventana donde podremos nuestra apuesta y si todo va bien atacaremos la cumbre entre el 15 y el 20 de Mayo.
Eso es mis amigos, les mando un abrazo y gracias por seguirnos-" Joshua Jarrin

Meltdown in the Himalayas!

Other news that hasn't made it global which is interesting in itself. A glacial lake burst on May 5th in the high Himalayan region swept away houses, farms, cattle near Pokhara in Nepal. Pokhara is the village and gateway for climbers and trekkers who go the Annapurna mountain range, there are 26 people confirmed dead and they are expecting more. Peak Freaks has trekkers in the region right now but they are fine as they are up in the mountains and not in the valley that has taken the bulk of the hit.

This will raise eyebrows once again of something we've been watching for quite a few years here in the Khumbu Valley. The Imja Tsho or Imja Lake is at the base of Island Peak. Imja Tsho threatens downstream communities with the potential for a glacial outburst flood. The natural dam is all that is holding it back, the dam is a moraine made up of dirt, rock and ice, the same as the one that just let go in the Annapurnas.

The footage from this video sent to me this morning resembles what came out of Japan during the tsunami..

Check out PEAK FREAKS NEWS 2012'

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